Saturday 26 March 2011

Pockets & Crimps

Hey there!

My first blog in ageees!! since my last it has mostly been climbing going on! :) Had a good time in margalef although found it to be very strenuos on the fingers! pockets pockets and more pockets. I decided that i liked the look of a small crag there which was very short as an introduction to margalef, it had 3 5+s and a 6b. easy?
should have been. although it had rained hard for 3 days so no chalk meant blind climbing and it was a roulette of which pocket was gonna actually b any good to pull on! i made a clip off a not so good 2 finger pocket on a 5+ which seemed crazy to me! but as they were short they were bouldery routes so hard for the grade, went further along after those and tried a couple of longer routes that were alot less fierce although still quite hard grades. these were the roadside crags, i found the higher up crags had what i persieve as much better quality routes, i tried a couple of real nice 6cs,  nearly got 1 in a session which wouldve been good as i realised i hadnt done a 6c in a session before! thought this was down to not trying 2 but didnt manage it that day, very close though. Was happy with that as i find margalef pretty nails!

Back in Siurana now, absolutely love it here!! defo my fave place so far. Had the best day yet yesterday at a crag called Grau dels Masets Cami, Me, Simon, Jason & Claire were climbing with a couple of polish guys we met called Alexander & Nicholas. Did a 6a & 6a+ to warm up then me and claire got on a 7a called 'Els hi agradra?', really really awesome route. very technical hard crimpy moves. I went up and gave the crux a go after claire and found it pretty good, after working out the crux moves i had a bit of a rest then bouldered out the whole route. It felt so good so after a little more rest went for the red point. Got so close but on the crucial move on the crux put my foot in the wrong place, at the time i couldnt work out what i was doing wrong, chucked for the next crimp anyway but was off. as soon as i was off of course i realised what i had done! It was the last hard move so was gutted i missed it as would have had a 7a in a session, I was as close to getting this route in a day, if not closer, as I was the 6c in margalef! Thought about 1 more attempt this session but I was spent, its amazing how quick you get tired when working a route thats hard for you! I have afew times now messed up my footwork on a redpoint which has cost me the route so now I know that this is something I need to focus on! Claire sent the route this day which was so awesome! Her first ever 7a! yaaaay! Was so stoked to be belaying for her! :) All of us tried the route this day as well as loads of other cool routes and it was such an awesome friendly relaxed atmosphere, really had a great time so thank you to you guys for that!

Anyways, today is a rest day (which for me was much needed!) chilling in the sun and then were off to town to the fish mongers and butcher to get some yummy ingredients to make paella this evening! mmmm :) Take care everyone speak again soon!

Lucy xxx

P.S. Please see below a couple of pics of Tala to remind you how beautiful she is after the last post!! :P


No comments:

Post a Comment