Sunday 1 May 2011

7c+ project

Hey

I have a new project in rodellar its called "Via Viciosa" no idea what i means in english :) its a very short and bouldery 7c+ in the Boulder jon Cuava sector. it is 12 metres and consists of about 16 hand moves with a fair amount of foot moves aswell.

I have had 4 days where i have tried it so far, the first was a quick play to see how it was i decided it was a good clmb to try. second day i figured out all the moves and felt happy that it would go once it have the sequences memorised, After this day i felt so achey for a few days think that i must have been working really hard, The crux on this particular climb is near the top and is about 7 moves that are really hard.

3rd day i tried to climb it, first go i came off at the middle of the crux as i wasnt warmed up correctly, the second and third try i get agonisingly close falling on the last hard move before the finnishing jug, a quick ajustment of my feet and i have a better sequence for the moves, im also knacked and feel super drained, decide to come back the next day

Day 4 i pull onto the rock and go for it decide to climb super quick and not chalk just go for it, it goes well im climbing smoothly and fast. then i fumble the crux clip and waist loads of time getting the rope clipped a few more moves and im off, 2nd go today i pull on and the easy moves at the start feel really hard, i get to the crux and feel my body tension faiding away. i slap wildly at a hold and then im off hanging in space, this climb really takes it out of you, i decide to come back after a rest day and try again, today is that rest day so i will keep you posted,




1 comment:

  1. It means the Vicious Way,
    take care
    mum xx

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