As we drove towards the Village or riglos you can see the amazing looking towers towering above the village from miles away, as we drove closer i though i could see a faint line snaking its way up the face near where we wanted to climb i dismissed it as silly but alass as we drover closer it became more and more defined. As the face is so steep the chalk on the holds never gets washed off so there is a faint line of chalk providing a light snakes trail all the way up the cliff. See photo ( our objective is the red line.)
As soon as we got the the village we rished upto the base of the tower to look and though it doesnt look so high it will be fine. We had heard that Leo holding had done it in 40 minutes then base jumped off the top so figured that 2.5-3 hours would be a good estimate of time for us :) deciding it was way to hot as 3pm to do anything we retreated o the shade of the bar and sat hoping someone would climb sonething so we could watch. Plans were made and a start time of around 8am was agreed on.
In the morning we grogaly awoke to pitch blackness at 7am looking at the stars and drinking coffee we though it may be a little early but not to be held back we started the walk and got to the bottom in time for the sun to be comming up and good light.
The climb itself starts with 2 reasonably easy pitches of 6a then 6a+ which we linked into one long 50m pitch to save time (and keep us on track for a 3 hours ascent). rupert started and with a sterling effort did 50 metres with 9 bolts!!! quickly up with him and noicely warmed i swap the bag im carrying for some quick draws and its my time to lead this time the hardest picth at 7a. I start off and quickly gain ground then come to a fairly blank cooking corner where the bolts sudeenly get really close together. Thats the crux i though to myself and set off bad crimpy slopey holds here reach up getting worse get my feet high look left and see huge foot hold. Left foot on my feet now really wide apart and im in a stable bridged position looking up i can see a good hold comming up a few more tenuous moves nd im there at the end of the crux looking up i can see my next good hold a metre and a bit up, it looks huge between me and it are 2 misserably small crimps grabbing them i setup and lunge it there smiling and only a easy run ahead to the belay.
Ruperts up and were ready now to face the ever steeping face above us. the next pitches are as follows, 6c, 6b+, 6b+, 6c+ then the finnishing 6a+. Rupert pushed on then im up with him swapping leads it all goes by in a blur of big holds and every growing exposure, we can see Vultures circling magestily below us as we inch upwards. The sun is now on us and we can feel the tiredness setting in. I finnish seconding the last 6b+ pitch with the bag on on super steep climbing its so strenious im pumped and spent as i arrive at the belay knowing i now have to push strait on to the second hardest picth, Rupert takes on look and asks if in still good to do the next pitch i say yeah but give me a breather for a few minutes. Rupert then drops the bomshell that hes been thinking and decides that he doesnt like multi pitch climbing and wants to be off the climb now so he doesnt mind leading on and i can rest whale he climbs. Calling him a hero i pass the draws and lead over to him. Pushing on with all the encouragement i can muster hes away and yarding easly up the super steep pitch above us. All to soon and all to easely hes up the top. i begin and with the bag and tiredness playing a part in soon pumped out of my mind hanging on the rope half way up the pitch. With load of encouragement im back on and make it to the top.
After the next easy pitch and a bit of a scramble were sitting at the top, after our speedy ascent in no less than 5 and a half hours :) get in were fast. AFtre a tireing walk back down we are met with a cold beer and tapas spanish style many thinks to lucy for being te treasure that she is for prepairing it. All in all a amazing day super exposed super fun but not something i want to repeat to often.
We have some amazing photos from the climb but they are on ruperts camera and im awaiting them byemail theyle be up ASAP once i get them.
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