Mental Mind games

Hey all

lots been happening since i wrote last, we had spent about 5 days in rodellar climbing with James, Rupert, Dave, Tom and Rosey from bristol have a really good time Trying lots of fun routes with a good bit of banter inbetween, I belayed Rupert on a really solid send of Lola 8a+, The wether was good and my finger was holding up suprisingly well, James and rupert were heading off on wednesday to go to Tres ponts so we had a good send off climb and planned a drink in the evening when the local Guardia civil ( Comunity suport officers) came round the car park and told everyone that they couldnt stay there anymore and they would be back to fine anyone who stayed there the next night. so a quick decission was made we were off to tres Ponts that day.

Its always exciting to go to a new area provisions were brought and we were off finding a nice little parking spot at a Fresh water sprint/ font in the foothills of the perryniees just down the road from the climbing. James and rupert turned up a bit later and Talk was talked and projects were discussed. Rupert recomended a 8a called "Mites Modernes" for me and james to try SO it was on we had 5 days here till james leaves on tuesday (Tomorrow) so the race was on what could i do in that time on a 8a.

First day i warmed up and got on it pushed up untill the crux have a very half assed attempt to get through it then lowered off having not worked the moves, Its pretty much a 7b/+ to a hard sequence of 6/7 moves then 2 easyer clips to the top, With one bolt in the middle of the crux sequence that you cant clip so have to the the whole lot quite run out. Second go i linked all that i did before then faffed around for ages not really getting anything except scared and intimidated, I worked out a really rubbish sequence then came down.

Second day pretty much went the same my mind wasnt in it as soon as i started climbing i had negative thoughts of my falling me not doing it my sequence not working me slipping everything un usefull so hence another day of not achieving much, i did get a new high point but figured out that my sequence didnt work as there was an impossible foot swap, that with a the little bit of tension from the rope when working it wit the clip above clipped made it possible but on the lead not going to happen. In stead of working out something new i decided it would work and carried on trying getting no further,

Then a rest day then the Climbing time again, And again mentaly im not there i very nearly walked away and gave up on it, but decided to give it one last go and to try to sort out my head I remembered a conversation i had with Robbie thompson about getting agressive on the rock and decided to make myself angry so i would be more focused this worked and i now have a massivley better sequence that i can repeat all the moves easily and reasonably consistantly. + linked the crux in its 2 half so now knowing that i can do all the moves and that my sequence works im no longer mentaly challenged as i know i can climb it so the run out and missing the clip doesnt worry me. Lesson learned once again whjen redpointig something hard make sure your happy with your sequence before you use it or you wont commit. also that i need to man up and just pull hard sometimes, i now have a good method of getting myself angry when im feeling negative and scared so hopefully this will help,

Were just waiting now for the sun to move round off the crag and climbing will comence at around 3-4ish only time will tell what will happen, im confident that aslong as i try hard enough i can climb it il let you know later how it goes.

Also really psyched as once james has gone me and rupert are heading to Riglos to try and climb "Fiesta los biceps" its a 8 pitch 7a that climbs up a huge comglomerate tower above a tiny village in the foot hills north of Huesca. I have wanted to try this route for around 2 years since i saw a photo of it. the rock face is concaved so the first pitches are slaby and technical then the top ones are hugely over hanging and airy cant wait, (photo i got psyched on is below) you can see the trail of chalk twisting away from below.