Sunday 27 November 2011

Good and the Bad


Hey all

Great news and bad news which leads to good news.


Good news is yesterdy (saturday) i have sent my latest project its called "La insaciable" and is a 20ish metre 7c+ in margaleff, its taken me 3 days and 4 goes after working out the moves so super happy as thats twice as quick as the last one i did, the route itself consists of a 4 bold boulder problem start thats pretty pumpy then you have 3 bolts of easyer ground thats not as steep when you can recover a bit then into a 2 bolt boulder problem at the top thats lots steeper and is 5 hard moves with the last move being a super powerfull crossover from a poor crimp pinch thing. I fell off this move 4 times first moving my feet to set up then going for the move i was 5cm short of the finnishing jug. then i got 2 fingers on the last hold and my feet popped so i came off. last time was the most tired that i have felt when arriving at the move so i popped and tried to jump a little this worked and i got the hold then my feel came off, controling the swing hight right foot and its over just a few easy moves and im at the chain for my second 7c+ of the trip!! stoked

I can really feel the bouldering strength comming through as have been working on short bouldery routes here im slowly gaining endurance  but power wins for now. got a few other easyer projects in the form of tsunami which is a powerfull 6 bolt 7c in the laboaratory i have done all the moves i just need to do it now so hopefully soon, then a bit of onsighting then its time to find a 8a project and finaly get one done.

Bad news is that today i woke up with a really bad stomach bug and spent the day in bed with cramps and feeling sick. i havent eaten anything all day and feel pretty crappy but hey another day is all good for climbing, good news occuring from this is i borrowed a hot water bottle from Tray which came in a "Fungus the bogey man" cover!!! This has helped massivly and made me smile cheers tray.

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