Monday 31 January 2011

Onwards to leyva


Not a massive amount has happened since our epic walking day, we have had a sudden onset of misserable rain which has lasted 2 days, most of it really heavy. Ah well its been a good excuse to relax, Well after trying to see what we can do in the rain, On thursday mid day ish i decided i had enough of being in the van so headed to the closist crag which happens to be very

overhanging and find that it is seaping a bit but quite dry, searching out a dry line i find a 7c that fits the perpose the only fully dry line on the crag, i egrudgingly manage to convince lucy that its a good idea and head out to try climbing in the rain, its really weird climbing and a few metres away its torrential rain, had a bit of a play but wasn't massivly impressed so went for th enext best option that of drinking in the van and listening to music a really good night ensued,

Finding it still raining on friday we restock and find that there is a fresh mountain spring water fountain in the village just down from us so we have stocked up on Loveley fresh water from the font del moli.

We head a few hours down the coast looking for sun and end up in the Sierra De Espuna National Reserve at a crag called Leyva. To say it is inspiring and steep is a bit of an understatement, Super steep line that go on and on All a beautifull orange with Jet back Water streaked tufas. Brilliant except all the best looking lines are 8b's Something to aspire to, Photos comming soon for this, Is quite odd climbing here as were in the sun on one side of the valley and the other side in the shade has snow on it!!!! were climbing in teeshirts so pretty cool.

Had a really good day here today (Saturday) lucy had a wicked day doing the most climbs i think i have seen her do in one day. all looking smooth and controled, with only a few power screams to ruffel her composure. I had a loads of fun wrestling with tufas with the hardest 7a onsight i hve ever done, got stuck at one point then found a sneaky knee bar to aid the move but managed to get my hand pinned between my knee and the rock took ages to wriggle it out then super pumped i pull up more tufas to see the chains in my sights i get another sketchey knee bar and reach to clip the final clip. as i watch in slow motion my knee slip then my foot and i start to barn door away from the rock i hear lucy let out a little scream, tensing everything i manage to drop the rope and get my other hand on something and control it. Very quickly and shakely i make the clip, stoked what a fight.

Moving on i have had enough of long pumpy lines and find a few 10 metre lines that overhang by around 50 degrees and have a play its amazing swinging around on super featured rock getting pumped. Feels like bouldering on a rope.

Going to head back there tomorrow and then heading back up the coast a bit to Orihulela hoping to find sector Boveda, again super steep jug fests around 30 metres long overhanging massivly but more reasonable grades, theres a good topo on the costablanca rock website, Il put on a link or some photos when i find it.

Just had a little wander outside the van and spent a while looking at the stars. Its so clear and away from everythink here you can see many more thank what i have ever seen before and its so still. I really like the solitude and peace it brings from knowing that there is no one for miles. Any who il leave with a question, If space goes on for infinity and its constantly expanding. what is it expanding into and what was there before space expanded into it? how can something go on for ever and have no end?

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